Martina Palermiti is an Italian fashion designer, raised in south of Italy.After her studies in Florence at Polimoda, now she is based in Bologna where she works and lives.
Platfash has made some questions to the young designer, talking about her last collection “Inscrutable Skin”, passions, inspirations, Made in Italy and future plans!
Could you talk a little bit about your collection and where your inspiration comes from?
For this collection, my inspiration was the photographer Janieta Eyre and especially his view of the world: a play of illusions and contrasts. Sublimating the ghost of a lost Siamese twin birth and the desire to be seen in a variety of sizes, the photographer shows images with a completely redesigned body, a continuous exchange of identity, a human game between copy and original that opens on ‘irreverent and ironic “imaginary twin” of the artist. you lose sight of the reality in these disturbing scenes, in which the photographer has doubled in what she calls “memories impossible.” Through these images, the Eyre reveals how even the clothing modulates our behaviors and perceptions that others have of us. his photographs, full of symbolism visionary and surreal, with the added charm of fashion photography, creating a short circuit of images and meanings of great visual and emotional impact which I feel in tune. So I based this work on the duality between masculinity and femininity, strength and fragility, playing with contrasting fabrics such as leather, silk and neoprene. I recreated a duality dividing the figure front from the rear, by structuring the shoulders and sleeves so as to have the vision of a body inside another as in a trap. View the profile visible only allowing the eye to re-create the same visual games that Eyre returns with his photographs. Each piece is a double of himself.
Do you work for someone else now?
Immediately after completing my studies at Polimoda I started working at a company in Bologna, with whom I had working relationships for an entire year. At the time I decided to pursue some personal projects and i will be with my owners at a charity event at the end of November.
What is the connection with the model that you have chosen?
The choice of model for the photo shoot was based primarily on professionalism, but of course I sought a model that would blend well with the collection then light colors and modern look. In my opinion, the wrong choice of model may preclude the entire photo shoot as the choice of make-up or poses to be taken, all of which should be balanced and merge as one.
Why do you choose to study in Polimoda?
I chose to study at Polimoda because I believe that right now is the best fashion institute in Italy. It allows you to learn the importance of research, and to enhance our technical knowledge and skills to both the design and the construction. An added bonus is also given by the working multicultural and very inspiring
What do you want to do in the future? (plans / goals)
Definitely one of my goals is to gain work experience abroad, I think it is an opportunity to grow and learn different perspectives compared to the the Italian ones. I would however to establish my career in Italy because I believe in this country and especially in the Italian fashion.
Are you preparing a new collection?
I am preparing a new collection, also this one is self-produced. I’m a great lover of manual techniques and craft and these will be essential to my creative process. I’ve always been fascinated by the use and combination of different materials, this allow the metamorphosis in the creation of my cloths.
How do you describe your personal style?
My plans are the result of the juxtaposition of minimal forms with details of force that are often inspired by architecture, art, film and photography. An aesthetic beauty that comes from geometric shapes, a strong emphasis on the materials to obtain the most wanted volumes, from the meticulous attention for workmanship and to the details, from the overlapping colors, from the interplay of transparencies and prints and textures created by me .
How is your relationship with the social media in general?
I have a great relationship with social media; Moreover nowadays it is impossible not to have any, I take advantages from the publicity that comes with it.
Which social media do you use mostly?
I use mostly instagram on a personal level, while with my Facebook page and the account of Not Just A Label I promote my brand.